In the last few weeks, Chicago has been trying to flush out all human life with sunshine and then drown everyone who emerges in apocalyptic storms. I actually can’t remember if I always distrusted lightning as much as I do now, but after that stormy night in a Peruvian tent and my subsequent googling into all the different ways lightning can kill you (did you know it can sneak along the ground and then jump up at you like a snake?) I’ve ratcheted up my defences. So, most of this blog is about staying inside and watching things. However! There has been one outdoor photo-worthy trip: our nighttime City Lights paddle down the Chicago river, courtesy of an excellent Groupon, which was beautiful and fun. (Not pictured: clinging to the side of the river waiting for a giant barge to slowly manoeuvre itself round the bend.)
We got the kayaking team back together again
Happy on the water
Downtown
All kayaks returned safely ashore
Otherwise we’ve stayed mostly dry and indoors, playing Dominion against Amanda (thanks to Katie, we now have a board game enjoyed by the whole flat) and arguing about the pro-predicate do. In our ongoing quest to watch more films we saw A Most Wanted Man (chosen after Eric Ambler put me in the mood for a good thriller) or “how the Americans always mess things up”, and Christopher Nolan’s low-budget debut film Following, which was great. (I know this is anathema to Jason, but some things do work better in black and white.) We’ve also started The West Wing from the beginning: a high-concept fantasy series in which the White House conducts daily on-camera press briefings and leads national policy debates.
Recently we also saw Pilgrims at the Gift Theatre – a “two misfits trapped in a room” play with the slight sci-fi twist of setting the room on a spaceship. I wasn’t quite sure what to make of this one so looked up some reviews to tell me what to think, but they were unhelpfully polarised, so my settled middle ground is that I really enjoyed the characters but think they could have done with a tighter story and a bit less ambiguity. Big props to Jasmine, an excellently-realised robot/avatar-type character who provided suitable comic relief.
This afternoon we also enjoyed The School for Lies, an English adaption of Molière’s 1666 comedy of manners The Misanthrope with some added mistaken identity runarounds and a much jollier ending. Obviously the rhyming verse isn’t a patch on the original French, but it was very funny nonetheless. (I kid. I do not speak French, and I’m basing my comparison solely on Wikipedia. Je suis désolé.) Earlier this week, I also tagged myself onto another Improv Shakespeare outing with James, Keleigh, Munchie and a gang of interns. The Licentious Wink was particularly notable for its extended BBC jokes and Great British Bake-Off scene, featuring an uncanny Paul Hollywood impression. Great stuff.
Jumping into the best garden pool you’ve ever seen
As you may have noticed, most of the trips I go on with Randi are characterised by a lot of running about from place to place, so it was deeply relaxing to spend the long 4th July weekend staying firmly put at Randi’s childhood home in Yorba Linda, California. Mostly in their family’s swimming pool, to be honest, because it is for sure the best swimming pool I have ever seen in someone’s back garden, and the water was so warm! We basically only ventured out for food and an Angels vs. Mariners game, at which we received free Albert Pujols bobbleheads (no, me neither) and spent roughly one third of the time queuing for Philly cheesesteaks. (What can I say, I enjoyed my introductory cheesesteak in Philadelphia… where they make them more quickly.)
At the Angels game
With a free morning in LA on Wednesday before my flight home, I also stopped by on Glamily favourites Jackie and Jeff. (I guess I don’t actually have favourites, but they are pretty great.) They treated me to breakfast on the beach at Santa Monica before taking me to the Getty Centre: a fancy LA art gallery built atop a hill which you ascend via a special tram, giving it a slightly rarefied above-the-clouds atmosphere as if you’ve just stepped onto the Starfleet Academy campus. Anyway, we saw a great exhibition on eighteenth-century European crowd scenes painted with tremendous detail. I felt sure that Wally must be hiding somewhere in there, but couldn’t spot him.
Oh, and I guess the other component of the weekend was being emotionally jolted around by the Doctor Who finale. I never really understood why the Cybermen were my dad’s favourite Doctor Who monster… until the return of the incredibly chilling originals this series, worthy of a Black Mirror dystopia. And it should be noted, amongst the all-American burgers and hot dogs and homemade sangria (well, maybe off-script there) on 4th July itself, three people started conversations with us about this series and Peter Capaldi and Bill Potts. Three people! Even in Yorba Linda, you’ll find plenty of sofas to hide behind.
My first convertible ride
Playing 6 Nimmt with Alex and Shelby
I have one fish. Randi has many fish.
Stopping by Jackie and Jeff
This weekend we tried to relive some of the California sun-and-water magic by going to WhoaZone on Lake Michigan with Jason and Carrie. And we got so close! Alas, there were “too many waves” today to allow anyone to play, although curiously we were allowed to swim in the exact same waters alongside it. Still, a good beach excursion to Whiting, Indiana was had by all.
Whoa Zone: off limits
Two more random things:
- If you’re still reading this but secretly hankering for better stories from an upgraded sibling, why not donate to Tash’s team leading in Malawi? Everything goes to the Voluntary Service Overseas organisation and will help fund their work.
- Last night, at Karol’s impromptu birthday drinks, we ended up talking to his friend who works in a steel mill about how steel is made. It was like listening to an obscure Radio 4 programme about a subject you’ve never thought about before… in other words, it was terrific. I asked some stupid questions like “so what can’t we do without steel?” and learnt a lot. (He was full of praise for German steel in particular. Another win for Germany!)
Like Florida, I had Pennsylvania down in my mind as a state left in an untidy state. I had visited the city of Philadelphia before, back when I looked like this…
At the Liberty Bell!
…but another trip was required, so I could make it ‘official’ and take lower-quality pictures of grown-up me with the same underwhelming Liberty Bell like this…
Back at the Liberty Bell!
At the Magic Gardens
…so that is exactly what we did. Together with Mike, Randi’s friend from New York, we enjoyed a whirlwind but quite glorious weekend in Philly. I’d forgotten how much I liked the East Coast! Since we were only there for one night we stayed in a ‘proper’ B&B (the kind with cooked breakfast and free wine in the evenings) as an extra treat, right in the historical centre, which put everything within easy walking distance. We saw the quirky Magic Gardens, took an excellent walking tour, hung out by the harbour, ate lunch at Reading Market, visited Independence Hall (“we don’t really know what the actual layout was, and this isn’t the original furniture, since the British burnt it all”) and were treated to lunch by my something-something-somewhat-removed cousins Roger and Lily Ann. Oh, and before leaving I made sure to eat a proper Philly cheesesteak too. All in the sunshine!
There is a lot of history here, but ‘Franklin walked down this alley’ is pushing it
Our walking tour guide outside (surprisingly cheap) historic homes
Ice cream: easy to obtain, harder to eat
Lunch with Roger and Lily Ann
I turned up too late for my constitutional input to be recognised
The most unexpected experience, however, came in the last few hours of afternoon wine at the B&B. In the living room, a cheerful couple from Georgia introduced themselves, explained that Southerners will always start up conversations with strangers, and told us that they were on a trip to celebrate their 40th wedding anniversary. Things got a little weird when they started to enthuse unironically about the ‘life-sized’ Noah’s ark in Kentucky, and it soon became clear that we were sitting opposite two bona fide creationists.
“Were you brought up in the church…?” asked the man. You have to understand that he had the sweetest, kindest face you can imagine, sounded a little like Bill Clinton, and we were all having a warm and friendly conversation. So we certainly didn’t want to start fighting with them. Randi parried the church question with her Jewish upbringing (which earned warm smiles and much praise for Israel) while I tried to use “I’m English!” as a euphemism for ‘godless heathen’.
I really wanted to gently introduce the a-word at some point, just so they could go home and tell their own stories about meeting out-and-out atheists at a B&B, but sadly I never quite worked up the courage for fear of derailing the vibe. Instead, when Randi and Mike left to catch their bus to New York, the couple asked permission to say a prayer over them for their safe journey. Later, once Randi and Mike had gone, the three of us tiptoed around the topic of healthcare together, and I saw again how the “some people are cheating the system” feeling can be so overpowering of all other rational consideration.
To be clear, I’m not trying to mock them. They were obviously wonderful people, and while I’m sure we were not that far away from reaching more uncomfortable topics, they actually said nothing ‘offensive’ on the Great Culture War issues you can easily think up. But I did feel sad, because creationism always makes me sad, and despite being sat on a sofa opposite them we might as well have been on different planets. No possible way to get through. As a human being, it’s a terrible thing to not know what you are, what you’re made of, and were you came from. (That’s why the moment Buzz Lightyear discovers he’s a toy is so devastating!) And yes, I know they feel exactly the same way in reverse.
At the Kingston Mines with Rhi
Earlier in the week, back in the secular bubble I inhabit, I had a birthday to celebrate! Randi prepared a carefully curated list of restaurants to eat at, and naturally I picked our nearest Indian place because (a) I’m unimaginative, and (b) Cumin is really and truly delicious. For a few days we also hosted Tash’s friend Rhi on the Chicago stop of her around-the-US trip (by train, obviously). We wanted to make sure Chicago made a good impression, so lined up a blues night at Kingston Mines plus Like It, Love It, You’ve Gotta Have It at Improv Shakespeare. (It was a particularly good production, as two dairy farmers sought revenge on the King for murdering their cows.) Rhi is the kind of sophisticated, thoughtful traveller who has already written her own blog post on the visit so you can judge for yourselves how successful we were on Chicago’s behalf.
In UK time, it’s my birthday already! But over here, I still have half an hour left, and I just made good use of my last Sunday evening aged 27 to see Wonder Woman with Todd and Carolyn. It’s been long enough since I last saw a summery superhero action movie that I was able to really embrace and enjoy it, especially the opening section on the Amazonian island of Themyscira. It only left a small part of me feeling a bit ungrateful at the end, since concluding the First World War only bought Europe a mere 21 years of peace – much of which was taken up by influenza and/or depression. If a superhero could volunteer to help draft a better Treaty of Versailles, or get a head start on Keynesian economics, that would be much appreciated.
I have been wanting to write something ever since Election Night, but haven’t found the right way to express my contradictory feelings. It was, at least, a much more interesting and exciting Election Night than everyone predicted – which was good, because I’d invited James over to witness parliamentary democracy in action, and feared it was going to be pretty boring. Not so. But still, I feel sad for the country, still drudging towards senseless economic self-harm, led by a tragic, broken figure – who can’t possibly be enjoying the job – whose lamentable, delusional address the next morning was honestly shocking for how poor it was.
A few weeks ago I enjoyed a happier political story – The 39th – about Will Guzzardi’s successful run for the Illinois state government in 2014. (I saw it as part of a film festival block of short films called The One With The Governor – some others were good, some were less good.) Even so, I’m a little tired of seeing and hearing stories from election campaigns. Campaigns are the least interesting part of politics! I realise a film about how awfully state government actually runs (or doesn’t run) in Illinois when no-one is paying attention wouldn’t fit into a good narrative arc… but I would appreciate it. Sequel?
OK, I’m done being grumpy. (Forgive me, I’m almost old.) Lighter diversions in the past few weeks have included a visit to Podhalanka with Karol. It’s a beautifully calm, old-fashioned, homely Polish restaurant nearby where you can enjoy traditional Polish food and complain about Polish politics. And yesterday, Randi and I joined Catherine and AJ in a return trip to the Lake Michigan Shore Wine Festival. So to conclude, here is a photo – stolen from Randi – of the pleasant post-festival hour we spent locked out of our rental car waiting for help. (That’s not sarcasm – it was nice and sunny, and we bought delicious ice-cream and played frisbee on the grasss with my Cubs hat. Best locked-out-of-car experience ever.)
AJ juggles
A roughly geographical collage of states
After my visit to New Mexico last weekend, I have now reached the halfway mark on my scratch mappable journey around the US states. To clarify (because rules are important) a state is considered ‘visited’ once I have:
- Spent a night in that state
- Done so after starting this blog
- Made an effort
(Rule #3 is obviously ambiguous, but exists to stop ‘sleeping overnight in an airport’ or ‘being locked up in a conference room but not actually seeing anything’ from counting towards the total.)
To be sure, there are limits to this approach. State boundaries don’t actually correspond to cultural ones very well, and the places which I am inclined to visit (New York City, Austin, New Orleans) are often entirely atypical of the state around them. I haven’t checked, but I imagine that almost all of the counties pictured above were won by Hillary Clinton… obviously, this is not the full picture. And yet, following these silly and arbitrary rules has produced an amazing set of memories across a wildly diverse country. Plus a much better sense of geography!
I can’t promise I’ll get to 50 anytime soon, but the quest continues…
Todd on 2024: My Year In Books: “I know what Glass Hotel is about. It’s about a bunch of loosely connected, barely developed characters, with their timelines…” Jan 4, 17:17
