Fort William

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Every few months I read the same basic article about the ‘rebirth’, ‘rediscovery’ or ‘renaissance’ of the sleeper train, but I’ve never ‘forgotten’ about them in the first place! I’d take every trip by overnight railway if money, time and tracks allowed.

Finishing up dinner in the Club Car
Finishing up dinner in the Club Car

No surprise, then, that Randi got us tickets for the Caledonian Sleeper from London to Fort William for my birthday. We met after work by one of Euston’s unglamarous platforms, stashed our bags in our Club Twin room and headed staight for the Club Car (as you do) for a sumptuous dinner, drinks and dessert while the outside world faded into darkness. I’m not 100% sure if I’ve ever eaten haggis before – this blog doesn’t say – but that evening really kicked off a haggis streak over the next week or so. It was all excellent, as was the Highland Breakast the next morning, by which time the scenery outside had transformed into breathtaking Highlands beauty. Surely plenty more people would ‘rediscover’ sleeper trains if there were more of them.

Our sleepr room (with en-suite toilet and shower!)
Our sleepr room (with en-suite toilet and shower!)
Quite a change outside the next morning
Quite a change outside the next morning
The view from breakfast
The view from breakfast
Coming back down Cow Hill through the forest
Coming back down Cow Hill through the forest

Our train pulled into Fort William at 10am, after which we checked into our Airbnb and took a walk along the Cow Hill circuit trail, which offers great views from the summit and then a walk through the woods on the way back.

That night we were joined by Katie and James, who drove up from Edinburgh to hang out for the weekend. James had already staked out Steall Falls as a place he really wanted to revisit, so on Saturday afternoon – after Katie, James and Randi ran parkrun in the morning – we set out on this popular hike to the promised waterfall.

It's really lovely up here
It’s really lovely up here
I forget why Katie was trying to escape via rope
I forget why Katie was trying to escape via rope
A mac and cheese pie to prepare us for our trek!
A mac and cheese pie to prepare us for our trek!
On the trail
On the trail

The most unusual part of the Steall Falls trail is the option of crossing the river on a wire bridge at the end. This isn’t necessary to complete the walk – it’s a there-and-back, so you can always turn around here – but it is the only way to get close to the waterfall itself. In my case, I took full advantage of the sibling dynamic: clearly, once Katie had decided to cross it, I wasn’t going to miss out and had to follow her. (Everyone we saw seemed to have a different method for moving their feet, but nobody fell in.)

Once we got to the other side, Katie and I enjoyed the close-up views and swapped notes on how badly we expected to be hurt if we’d fallen off the wire. Then thoughts turned to getting back. After my initial suggestion (cross the slippery rocks over the fast-flowing water) was rejected, I was proud of myself for spotting a useful tree further downstream which could serve as a useful river-crossing device. Imagine my disappointment when I discovered that this was merely stream #1 and there was in fact another river to get back to, at which point ‘just taking my shoes off and wading back barefoot’ became the chosen strategy. Cold, but effective.

Behold: the sight of the Steall Falls has been reached
Behold: the sight of the Steall Falls has been reached
A totally authentic and unstaged photo #nofilter
A totally authentic and unstaged photo #nofilter
Woman on Wire
Woman on Wire
A useful tree for the return journey
A useful tree for the return journey
Obviously I had to follow Katie
Obviously I had to follow Katie
At the waterfall!
At the waterfall!
Not pictured: the children who watched but failed to applaud
Not pictured: the children who watched but failed to applaud
Katie and James outside the Highland Cinema
Katie and James outside the Highland Cinema

Tash had recommended the Highland Cinema as a good lunch spot in Fort William, and while eating here Randi and I had decided to buy tickets to see Oppenheimer on Saturday night after Katie and James returned home to Edinburgh. I hadn’t actually been all that enthused by the trailer, but Christopher Nolan’s name is a draw and I did really enjoy the film itself. In some ways it has a surprising focus: it’s not really about Oppenheimer’s leadership of the US’s atomic bomb programme, or their use against Japan, and is centered more on his later struggles with the US government and the political manoeuvrings of the Atomic Energy Commission chair, Lewis Strauss. Stauss is the villain of the film and, like all good villians, he makes some good points. But the audience’s sympathy lies, I think, with Oppenheimer – and that’s a strange place for the “father of the atomic bomb” to end up.

Instead of heading staight back to London, Randi and I both worked the next week from Edinburgh, where we were also joined by Kira on her first visit to Scotland. (Shout-out to the lovely American couple from Cleveland on the train back from Fort William after taking a week to walk the West Highland Way. I’m pretty sure they had intended to play a nice game of cards together, but never got the chance as we just kept talking to them.) Other than working, the three of us mostly spent the week walking, drinking and watching many episodes of Scotland’s Home of the Year on BBC Scotland, a show in which one of the three judges pays brief lip sevice to recognising “environmentally friendly” homes during the intro but then always awards the highest marks to the largest, most energy-intensive houses in the middle of nowhere.

Then, on Saturday, we got to Fringe!

  • Enquiry Concerning Hereafter – a loving tribute to the friendship between David Hume and Adam Smith, set in Smith’s old house and with very intimate staging. Objectively, I didn’t think it was the greatest drama in the world because the problem with “you’re brilliant because of this” and “no, you’re brilliant because of that” is an obvious absence of dramatic tension, a problem not fully ameliorated by adding Charon (y’know, the guy who ferries souls to the underworld) to the mix. Subjectively, stuff all that because I obviously loved it. It’s a play about my two favourite philsophers talking about their philosophy! If you are already a fan of something, there’s nothing wrong with fanservice. And the best part was Adam Smith’s interrogation of Charon on the monopolisitc practices of his boat service.
  • Shamilton – you know what this is, because we saw it last year, but for the record: an improvised Hamilton-esque hip-hop musical about a public figure nominated by the audience at the start of the show. This time we got the (slightly sanitised) life of Kanye West, with a healthy dose of Taylor Swift rivalry. It was fantastic, as usual, and inspired us to book a showing of Improv Shakespeare for our upcoming Chicago trip.
  • What The Veck? Songs in the Key of Strife! – to almost exactly replicate our pattern from last year, the five of us (Katie, James, Kira, Randi and I) decided that we should squeeze in one more show, chosen semi-randomly from the Fringe app just a few minutes before it was due to start. This turned out to be the low-key but delightful Tom Veck singing silly songs and handing out naff raffle prizes (the naffle) from which our group won repeatedly.
One of the many beautiful sights from the Water of Leith Walkway on one of our evening Edinburgh walks
One of the many beautiful sights from the Water of Leith Walkway on one of our evening Edinburgh walks
2023's Fringe viewing team. (Not pictured: the entire glass of Pimms I accidentally threw over myself in this bar.)
2023’s Fringe viewing team. (Not pictured: the entire glass of Pimms I accidentally threw over myself in this bar.)

Back in London, Kira had persuaded me and Randi to see The Pillowman with her on Friday night. My expectations were very uncertain not because I thought it would be bad, but because with my history of going blind triggered by certain types of content I might only get to enjoy the first few minutes of this “gruesome”, “macabre” play about torture and mutiliation. I prepared myself by booking a seat at the end of the row with the perfect escape route, and we had dinner together first at Toyko Diner (where my mum took us before seeing Patriots) so that, y’know, we’d still have had a nice evening.

Anyway, I needn’t have worried because I really, really loved this play, and the dark comedy style was – for me – hilarious rather than panic inducing. This production is a revival of the 2003 original, which starred David Tennant as a short-story writer with the silly name (Katurian Katurian) who is interrogated by two agents of the unnamed totalitarian state in which they live when his terrible tales seem to have been the spur for real-life copycat incidents. In the revival, Lily Allen plays a gender-swapped Katurian, while Steve Pemberton and Paul Kaye play the good-cop/bad-cop policemen Tupolski and Ariel.

Obviously I would love to pop back to 2003 to see Tennant’s performance, but having read some negative reviews about Allen I have to say that I thought she was great. Yes, Steve Pemberton is amazing and steals the show with some of Tupolski’s lines, but the whole cast was excellent and I’m very grateful to Kira for including us in her London theatre spree. Randi and I have spent a long time talking about this play since!

When I last left you, it was (almost) my birthday and Randi had baked a giant lemon cake to celebrate. I am now happy to confirm that (a) as expected, I did indeed turn 34 the next day, and (b) we successfully completed the cake-eating challenge over the next few days with assistance from Reema and Kira. Kira also brought Don’t Get Got, a paranoia-inducing party game in which secret antisocial missions must be undertaken against your friends while you’re supposed to be hanging out and relaxing. (I mention this now because if you happened to be at the Lexi cinema recently and wondered why someone was singing the national anthemn of Belarus behind you, that’s why.) For my birthday itself we enjoyed a pizza night out in central London, while on Friday evening we joined our neighbour Angela to try our local area’s new Vietnamese restuarant. It quickly became apparent that roughly half of our road had had the same idea… like an impromptu meetup for the street’s WhatsApp group.

That weekend we were very excited to head to Tash and Cormac’s for brunch with my something-cousin-something-removed Jamie and her daughter Lori, who were visiting from California and had put an impressive level of planning into checking off the entire London family. Lori and I spent much time on the important task of naming all of the different slimes which she had created on her iPad slime app. (Did you know that kids have iPad slime apps these days? In my day, if you wanted a slime app, it would run in MS-DOS.)

Afterwards, Randi and I had some time to kill before dinner so we made the perfectly normal decision to take the Overground out to the new Barking Riverside terminus (opened July 2022, but without the fanfare of the Elizabeth Line) and walk along the river path for a bit. I found it really uplifting to see this new infrastructure opening up more places for people to live, although the development is very much still ‘in development’ so it’s hard to shake the feeling that you’re still walking through an artist’s impression of a community to come. Definitely a place I’d be curious to revisit in a decade.

Why not ride... to the end of the line?
Why not ride… to the end of the line?
Squinting back at Barking Riverside station built for future growth
Squinting back at Barking Riverside station built for future growth
Barking Riverside pier, from which you can sail back into town
Barking Riverside pier, from which you can sail back into town

Instead of just going back on the Overground in the opposite direction we decided to take the Thames Clipper boat into central London and let Randi pretend she was still in Stockholm for a bit. This was excellent – especially as we bagged one of the coveted outdoor seats – and a great way to pass the rest of the afternoon before we made our way to Shepherd’s Bush for dinner with Kira at a Korean restaurant (very tasty) and then – you guessed it – another play at the Bush Theatre. This time we saw A Playlist for the Revolution, a romantic comedy set in Hong Kong at the time of the 2019/20 protests between a straight-laced economics student and an idealistic visitor from England who tumbles into his life at a wedding. Funny, moving and – as you might expect from the title – it comes with a great soundtrack.

There is some dispute over which of us won this mail delivery racing game
There is some dispute over which of us won this mail delivery racing game

The next day, we rode the Mail Rail! This had been on my obviously-we-have-to-do-this list for a long time, but Katie kindly took the decision out of my hands via birthday gift to ride on the London Post Office Railway and explore the Postal Museum. In case you aren’t aware, in 1927 this little underground railway opened to transport letters and parcels underneath London on driverless electric trains. Remember that whenever somebody asserts that we’re living in some magical era of rapid technological progress: in 1927 you could send actual letters on an underground network around London, and in 2023 you can’t. So, take the next best option and ride it yourself instead.

Mail Rail!
Mail Rail!
Randi actually had plenty of room on this train
Randi actually had plenty of room on this train

While Randi was up in Scotland for a bit I played charades with Angela and Conor and saw Asteroid City at the Lexi with my mum and Kira, where – as previously discussed – I successfully manipulated Kira into a rendition of the Belarusian national anthemn. As for the film itself, I think we were all a little… perplexed?… about whether we actually enjoyed it or not. After pondering for a bit, I decided that it was genuinely entertaining (and frequently chucklesome, if not laugh-out-loudsome) with incredible style and visual detail, so I’m going to bank it as a fun night out and not worry too hard about whether I am a real Wes Anderson fan or not.

Recently I also had a rare (but lovely!) day in the office, followed by an even-lovlier pub gathering with Steve, Tomas, Kira and Paul. Randi and I also hung out with Sam on the Chandos balcony and (drumroll please) finished watching Succession! Watching the whole show in a year and a half might seem glacial to most people but it was incredibly quick for us, and now I’m sad that there’s going to be a Succession-shaped hole in my life where Kendall, Roman and Shiv should be. (Apologies to the other characters, but the three sibling dynamic is special to me.)

Last weekend I was in Scotland myself, and (in return for a place to stay and some morning rolls) on Saturday I joined Kirsty’s canvassing team for Labour in Midlothian. It might sound like a cliché, but it genuinely makes me really happy to be able to talk to voters on the doorstep – even when they don’t agree! – because people will endlessly surprise you on what they want to talk about. On Sunday, though, I took the day off to hang out with Katie and James and watch 1972’s Day of the Daleks. This was James’s first classic Doctor Who story so I was a little nervous, but it actually has a cracking plot and pace and was highly enjoyable from start to finish with the one exception of the really, really terrible Dalek voices. C’mon guys. Had you never heard a Dalek speak before?

Midlothian canvassing team!
Midlothian canvassing team!

And finally, this weekend a gang of us had the great pleasure of meeting Cat’s husband Brian (who I actually remember from a Starbucks in Chicago many years ago!) over a couple of beers in the sun. I hadn’t seen Amy and Craig in particular for many years, and the only downside to seeing their wonderful faces again is the short flash of mutual recognition at how young we all used to be back in the heady Groupon days. In a similar vein, I spent the afternoon riding down the Cam today at PuntCon 2023, Bill Thompson’s “tax deductable” geek picnic which I first attended in 2010 and was, in fact, celebrating its twentieth anniversary today. Happy birthday PuntCon!

On the way from the station I had bumped into Dr. Melissa Calaresu, my Director of Studies at uni, who was sweet enough to dismount from her bicycle so we could walk and talk and worry about the fate of the world together. (She also slipped in some proper history about medieval child kings which I will definitely work into conversation elsewhere.) Luckily, the the world still looked pretty good down by the river at Grantchester Meadows on a sunny July day. Future historians should note that a punt pole was briefly abandoned to its fate, but then expertedly recovered by Max’s professional punting expertise.

Hanging out with Cat and Brian at Vinegar Yards
Hanging out with Cat and Brian at Vinegar Yards
Bill can always hold the crowd's attention at a PuntCon picnic :)
Bill can always hold the crowd’s attention at a PuntCon picnic 🙂
The Connectivity team at work
The Connectivity team at work

Happy Bank Holiday 3/3 for May 2023! The second one proved to be both productive and nostalgic, as Kira (and her cats) had just moved into a new flat near where we used to live. After completing some IKEA engineering challenges together we went on a big walking tour of our favourite parks before rejoining Randi’s parents at our old local pub, Knowles of Norwood, which is thankfully still open for business and – in fact – has recently expanded into a larger space.

Birthday dinner #1!
Birthday dinner #1!

This was the last week of Beth and Stu’s visit to the UK, so that Friday we celebrated Randi’s birthday a few days early with a fancy dinner and lots of delicious sharing plates at Ottolenghi’s ROVI restaurant. (Fair warning: there are a lot of restaurants coming up in this post. It’s been a very, very good couple of weeks for eating.) The next day we sauntered up to Andrew and Bonnie’s for lunch – always a great dining experience in its own right! – plus some explanations of cricket and somewhat competitive tours of Alexandra Palace and its early TV broadcast history. (We got Bonnie, Beth and Stu got Andrew.) Then, appropriately, we sped home for the definitive broadcast event of the modern day: Eurovision!

The night before Eurovision
The night before Eurovision

It seems odd that in all our years of evangelising Eurovision we’d never actually shown it to Randi’s parents, and while there was a mixed response to the timeslot (“the voting doesn’t end until midnight?!”) they were enthusiastic about completing their official Eurovision 2023 scorecards. Personally, I’m not convinced that previous winners should be allowed to compete again, and would rather Finland’s catchy Cha Cha Cha, Norway’s Queen of Kings or Austria’s tribute to Edgar Allan Poe (there aren’t enough nineteenth century literary references at Eurovision) had beaten Sweden’s (perfectly decent) entry, whose predictable triumph made the whole results section feel less dramatic than usual. Come back next year?

Your new foodie guides
Your new foodie guides
A much-discussed birthday cookie
A much-discussed birthday cookie

The next day we were treated to an extremely tasty lunch (and more birthday celebrations!) at Tash and Cormac’s flat, followed by a tour of Leyton including Leyton Jubilee Park and its jolly pirate ship. And that was (almost) it for Beth and Stu’s latest visit to London, aside from the very important business of Stu’s homemade hamburgers on their final night with us. (Public service announcement: burgers go better in rolls of challah.) After they had left, Randi’s actual birthday night was spent in Dulwich’s Megan’s in the Hamlet, where (a) the marmalade cocktail is amazing, (b) the staff are super-fun and willing to share inside gossip.

Doing our best pirate impressions
Doing our best pirate impressions
Dressing up just a little
Dressing up just a little

I have been casually saying “Randi’s birthday” but- excitingly – it was also her 30th birthday. So, that weekend, we pushed the foodie boat even more and had lunch at three Michelin-starred The Waterside Inn. (One star for each decade, you see.) In case you’re wondering, there are only eight restaurants with three Michelin stars in the UK and – weirdly – two of them are just a few minutes’ walk from each other in the small Berkshire village of Bray (population: 9110). Assuming you aren’t one of those 9110 people, the easiest way to get to Bray is to take the Elizabeth Line to Maidenhead and then (ignoring the nonsensical website instructions to take a taxi) enjoy a delightful 35 minute walk through Braywick Park until you reach the restaurant on the banks of the Thames. Easy peasy.

Since I’m not really a foodie person, I have neither the writing talent nor much photographic evidence of the sevenish-course ‘Menu Exceptionnel’ we devoured. (And what counts as a ‘course’, really? There were actually eight lines on the menu if you include the tea & coffee and petit fours, which was brought out to us on the riverside terrace after the afternoon sun came out. But that doesn’t include Randi’s bonus birthday dessert, or the amazing pre-stater-startery things! So I don’t know. It was a lot.) Suffice to say, everything was really, really good, all the way from the mushroom pâté at the beginning to the soufflé with hot rhubarb compote poured through the middle at the end. Would recommend. I would also recommend walking along the river path to Windsor afterwards, especially if the weather was as perfect as it was for us.

The last known photo of Randi before she found out how good the rhubarb soufflé tasted
The last known photo of Randi before she found out how good the rhubarb soufflé tasted
Hungry with anticipation on the walk from Maidenhead
Hungry with anticipation on the walk from Maidenhead

The fine food (and drink) just kept on coming this month, including a work dinner with an incredible Indian tasting menu (in a private room with a huge glass window overlooking the kitchen) and, the following night, gastropub delights with Jill, Lee and some partners we work together with. Clearly on a roll, on Friday night Randi and I took my mum out for her birthday at the Tash-starred restaurant Ayam Zaman in Shepherd’s Bush. (I was about to add “…and went overboard on the meze” but, honestly, I don’t regret ordering any of it.)

After dinner we went to the Bush to see Invisible, only a mere fortnight after seeing August in England at the same theatre with Randi’s parents. (Having now seen three shows there within two months, the Bush Theatre is now hands-down our favourite venue and we already have our next pair of tickets.) August in England premiered last month and stars Lenny Henry as August Henderson, a Windrush-era arrival from Jamaica whose life story is told movingly and beautifully from childhood to being threatened with deportation during the Windrush scandal 52 years later. Of course, it’s Lenny Henry so much of the play is also hilarious, but he kept our audience enraptured all the way from boisterous comedy to the most poignant moments.

Similarly, Nikhil Parmar’s Invisible is another one-man show performed with electric energy. The story of a struggling actor, failing to be seen beyond the restrictive racial stereotypes in which he is cast, combines great physical comedy with an undercurrent of deep rage and violent fantasy. It’s hard to be too specific without giving away the twists, but it’s another play which you should definitely catch if you can.

And finally:

  • I managed to kick-off a fascinating and (hopefully productive) evening of political campaign brainstorming by knocking over Kirsty’s vase and emptying close-to-100% of its contents on the floor. This is why I’m not a consultant. But it was a great evening nonetheless!
  • After Randi, Reema and I finally got ourselves into the same spot and stopped wandering independently around Brockwell Park, we were able to have a lovely evening of pizza and beer together at Bullfinch Brewery (which we’ve always wanted to go to!).
  • It’s been a while (OK, it’s been seven months) but Randi and I walked London Loop Section 3 on Saturday and it was sunny and spectacular. Also, the ice cream van at Keston Ponds is the best.
  • Kira came round to play Dominion last night, and I have really, really missed being able to play several rounds of Dominion in a group of three. (We still miss you though, Amanda.) Kira also brought ice cream with her.
  • Today, on Bank Holiday 3/3, Randi used Katie’s birthday gift vouchers towards brunch at Dishoom in Canary Wharf (thank you Katie!) before leading us on a walk most of the way home through the Isle of Dogs, the Greenwich Foot Tunnel and then to Lewisham via Greenwich Park and Blackheath. Basically, the perfect encapsulation of all the ‘eating + walking’ stuff I’ve just written.

Back in April I spent a weekend in Norfolk/Suffolk with two different sets of cousins, starting with my cousin Julie who met me for a drink in Diss before we enjoyed a walk around Thornham Park. Julie has recently become a postie, although sadly she’d finished her shift so I missed my chance to ride along in a red Royal Mail van. That evening, I was kindly transferred over to Frankie and Anya’s new place in time for dinner and playtime with my next-generation cousin Lena, from whom I’ve now learnt that it’s totally pointless to try and separate Play-Doh colours once they’ve been combined.

Through Lena’s influence I also became a big fan of Disney’s Elena of Avalor series, mostly because I was impressed by the structured exercise of Princess Elena’s executive authority through a Grand Council. Honestly, Avalor’s constitution seems to function much better than most Disney monarchies, and I have high confidence that its citizens won’t wake up to find that all their spinning wheels have been appropriated and destroyed on spurious security grounds or that a sea witch can kidnap and imprison people with impunity thanks to some libertarian contract law.

Once Lena had gone to bed, I continued to have a great night with Frankie and Anya watching highly-questionable ‘travel influencer’ videos (although in retrospect, maybe we should have just watched Elena of Avalor) before going for a walk together around Ickworth House near Bury St Edmunds the next day. Thanks to all of my East Anglian relatives for hosting me!

Me and Julie
Me and Julie
Wheelbarrow racing at Ickworth House
Wheelbarrow racing at Ickworth House

The week afterwards, Randi’s parents arrived in London in time for the biggest and most exciting event of the last few weeks: Randi and Katie running the London Marathon!

Spoiler alert: they did it!
Spoiler alert: they did it!

For sure it was an exhausting day, but I’m very proud to say that thanks to some intensive planning and preparation, everything came together… and, with very impressive timings, James and I successfully navigated between our three spectator spots to be able to cheer them on. So congratulations to us!

In all seriousness, Randi and Katie both smashed it and looked impressively unperturbed during the entire run. I remember standing and waiting for my uncle Andrew to go past when he ran the London Marathon years ago, and it’s notable how things have changed with phones and tracking apps. The atmosphere at the London Marathon has always been lovely, but now it’s much more fun to be in a big WhatsApp group with fellow supporters, sharing photos and videos of our runners at lots of different points along the route. Also, I think Tash deserves a medal of her own for booking a pub table near the finish line for us all to congregate at afterwards. Bravo.

Receiving sage advice from the family's previous marathon runners the night beforehand
Receiving sage advice from the family’s previous marathon runners the night beforehand
Saying goodbye in the morning at the start of the route in Greenwich Park
Saying goodbye in the morning at the start of the route in Greenwich Park
Running mile 1 (of 26)
Running mile 1 (of 26)
Kudos to James for making these incredible t-shirts for all the supporters
Kudos to James for making these incredible t-shirts for all the supporters
Celebrating Randi and Katie after the pub
Celebrating Randi and Katie after the pub
The Orbit at night
The Orbit at night

Dedicated readers of this blog may remember that Randi and I slid down the Orbit slide back in 2021, but at the time I didn’t have any pictures from the top as all belongings must be stowed in a locker. The secret, it turns out, is to visit the Orbit as part of a corporate shindig (in this case, the ‘Shortyz Awards’ for the short-term rental industry) in which case the queue for the slide is much shorter and someone will happily hold your phone as you go down. So, what follows are some belated photos from the top, before you fly down to the bottom in an unflattering cap. I continue to find the ride itself oddly relaxing.

Lee prepares to slide down
Lee prepares to slide down
The blur in the bottom right is technically Lee
The blur in the bottom right is technically Lee
With Kira, Lee and Ian at the awards
With Kira, Lee and Ian at the awards
On one of our walks
On one of our walks

Later that week Randi and I had a really enjoyable dinner with her colleague Stephen and his partner Viv, before taking the train up to the East Yorkshire coast on Friday for a long weekend with our parents in an amazing cliffside cottage by the sea. This ‘Puffin Palace’ belongs to two family friends, Helen and Anthony, who very generously lent it to us all for the first of this year’s three May bank holidays. (What a time to be alive!)

Although we didn’t see any of the aforementioned puffins, we did go on several stunning walks along the cliffs, ate very well and answered a lot of “on this day” quiz questions. (Boastful quizzing side-note: Randi, Stewart and I also did great on some obscure US Presidential trivia on the train home.)

Gilly, Beth and Stewart
Gilly, Beth and Stewart
As you can see, you couldn't get any better views from the house
As you can see, you couldn’t get any better views from the house
A beach along the coast
A beach along the coast
(Albeit not beaches for sunbathing)
(Albeit not beaches for sunbathing)

On our return we also had the pleasure of hosting Kim for her first few nights back in the UK on a visit from Australia. Along with some Tim Tams and Vegemite Shapes, Kim also gifted us with an incredible homemade Carcassonne-themed wedding present which is the perfect accompaniment to our original wedding meeples from Catherine and AJ. Thanks, Kim!

Drinks with Kim at the Honor Oak
Drinks with Kim at the Honor Oak
Tash: "Looks suspiciously like an everyday quiche to me"
Tash: “Looks suspiciously like an everyday quiche to me”

And finally, today Randi and I went down to Hassocks to spend Coronation day (for Charles, not Elena of Avalor) with Simon, Fleur and Cleo. I mean, to clarify, we didn’t visit them with any particularly royalty-themed purposes in mind… although we did all end up eating the official coronation quiche for lunch at the local garden centre/café/lawnmower museum because it genuinely seemed like it would be quite nice. (And so it was!)

P.S. Happy 19th birthday blog, which reached this uneventful milestone on 27th April. As per tradition I searched for any exciting new legal rights for age 19, but all I could find were things (e.g. free dental care) you start losing instead…

I wasn't joking about the lawnmower museum
I wasn’t joking about the lawnmower museum

It’s been a busy few weeks! A few weeks ago I attended Booking.com’s annual partner conference in Amsterdam, held on a grander and flashier scale than last year and – most excitingly – included an appearance from 2014 Eurovision winner Conchita Wurst at their big party on Wednesday night. I think I actually missed Eurovision that year, so I’m glad I finally got to see her perform, although it was her cover of the instantly recognisable Everyway That I Can (Turkey, 2003) which was the biggest crowd-pleaser of all.

Amsterdam itself was as lovely as ever, even in drizzly March. Public service announcement: the trains accept contactless card payment now, so the “standing confused beside the ticket machine” phase of your trip is now a thing of the past. Hurray!

Our private Conchita Wurst concert!
Our private Conchita Wurst concert!
A proper party
A proper party

After getting back home on Thursday night, Randi and I finally made it to Tash and Cormac’s new flat for a wonderful ‘London Supper Club’ Friday night with my mum and Cormac’s dad Brendan. Alongside a true feast of Indian cooking we enjoyed a riotous night of poetry, songs and one interpretative tin whistle performance (you’re welcome) which really buoyed us up into a cheerful mood for the whole weekend. It also inspired me and Randi to read The Importance of Being Earnest aloud together one evening a few weeks later. Who needs Netflix, really?

Talking of readings – a few days later, at the stone setting service in memory of my great uncle Leonard, many of our family dug deep into our email archives to perform some of Leonard’s famous emails from years gone by. For most people this would probably be pretty dull, but Leonard’s emails were certainly flights of storytelling… even if the story he was telling was normally a tale of trial and tribulation. Thanks to my friend Simon for inspiring us with his Charles Dance-esque interpretation of Leonard’s writing a few years back.

For some professional entertainment, Randi and I also saw Sleepova that Saturday at the Bush Theatre, a play about the enduring power of teenage friendship as four girls go through life’s ups and downs during their GCSE years. Everything about this play just worked for us: serious themes, but always funny, warm-spirited and life-affirming at the same time. I’d never been to the Bush Theatre before but it’s as close to perfect a venue you can get, with strong vibes of the Tricycle in its glory days. All four characters felt real and relatable, albeit with some subtly different attitudes to the generation I remember (because I’m old now) but always played with warmth and humanity which kept you rooting for them all. You really know a play is working when one of the characters tells her parents something that she shouldn’t, and the audience all instinctively sighs together with frustration. Highly recommended. (I mean, the run is over now, but in theory at least: highly recommended.)

Even more culture: a week earlier Randi and I had a very rare movie night in and watched Everything Everywhere All At Once, the Oscar-winning universe-hopping surrealist sci-fi comedy centered on a Chinese American immigrant family and their quest to save the multiverse and/or save their laundromat from an IRS tax audit. Unlike Sleepova, you’ve probably seen this already and don’t need me to describe it to you. But it’s very good, and a real delight to see a film so brimming with creativity and imagination. Also, I should note that we finally finished Our Friends in the North after I (falsely) promised to Randi that the final episode must be more uplifting than those couple leading up to it. It was a promise made with the best of intentions, but sadly proved inaccurate.

This isn't Disneyland in California - you still have to wring out the water rides
This isn’t Disneyland in California – you still have to wring out the water rides

Recently, while having brunch with Josh, Anna and Cora, we learnt that Josh and Anna were planning a romantic couple’s getaway together to Thorpe Park. Unfortunately I didn’t mask my excitement at the idea, nor the fact that I still had a day of annual leave to burn before the end of March, and that’s how I ended up inviting myself along to Josh and Anna’s rollercoastery day out. Of course, it was totally worth it, especially as it included a sleepover of our own the night before so I got to spend even more time with Cora (who now talks all the time!).

The next morning the three of us set out for a day of rides and ride analysis, of which my main conclusions are (a) Saw is probably Thorpe Park’s best all-round rollercoaster now, but (b) I’m really glad I went off to ride Stealth again because – although Josh and Anna aren’t fans – it’s up there as one of my favourite rides of all time. It’s been years since I was last at Thorpe Park and investment (along with visitor numbers) has fallen away since I was a teenager, but they are now finally working on a new rollercoaster so I guess we’ll just have to go back again once it opens…

The best type of sleepover
The best type of sleepover
Back at Thorpe Park after many years
Back at Thorpe Park after many years
Anna, Josh, me and this happy stranger on Saw
Anna, Josh, me and this happy stranger on Saw
Riding Stealth (with another blissful stranger)
Riding Stealth (with another blissful stranger)

Finally, in exciting and still slightly surreal news, I’m very happy that my friend and colleague Kira has just successfully made the move to the UK. By a weird twist of fate she’s spending her first few weeks in Willesden Green, so on Friday night we celebrated her arrival at the excellent Beer + Burger. But by Sunday the wheels were already in motion for Randi’s South East London sales pitch, and together with our colleague Patricia we enjoyed a great shakshuka and challah brunch at ours before playing some energetic rounds of Cobra Paw and a good game of Citadels. Then, since we’re all still excited by the novelty of it being light and sunny outside, we walked over to Crystal Palace together for ice creams and dinosaurs. More South East London at its best! And all part of Randi’s plan.

Randi and I already had plans to to visit Bristol this Easter weekend, since – although I’ve heard many good things about the city – my only actual experience of it was a brief (and very odd) day trip for work back in my Groupon UK days, and that was to an offensively ugly office building which I hoped wasn’t representative of the whole place. Happily, once we knew Kira would be in the country by then, we managed to persuade her to join us and so the three of us took the train up on Friday and stayed in an Airbnb loft in the fancy Clifton area. (Yes, as in the Clifton Suspension Bridge – which is indeed very cool to look at and walk over.)

I really, really liked Bristol from what I saw. Because it’s so hilly and green, and because so many of the buildings are built from Georgian stone (and on roads which refuse to form straight lines but instead criss-crossing crescents at different levels) there’s just a lot to look at and admire as you walk around, without mentioning the colourful houses, beautiful artwork and harbour area. We basically did a lot of walking – including through the expansive Leigh Woods – interspersed with a lot of eating, from authentic Cuban food to a proper pub roast on Easter Sunday itself, plus a very healthy number of Easter eggs. We also enjoyed Victoria Park and the M Shed museum, rewatched Free Solo together and played a couple of big-money games of Dominion Prosperity.

All limbered up after playing Cobra Paw
All limbered up after playing Cobra Paw
Welcome to Bristol!
Welcome to Bristol!
Before one of our many delicious meals
Before one of our many delicious meals
The Clifton Suspension Bridge
Kira's Dominion victory
Kira’s Dominion victory