(Pure) Michigan

reddalek

Ludington State Park

Ludington State Park

For the long Thanksgiving weekend, Randi and I took a roadtrip around Michigan – conveniently upping my total of states visited by one. (A double bump, technically, if you counted the brief drive through Indiana… but that would be cheating.) So here is a story of five very different Michigan towns.

1. Paw Paw
Population: 3534
Most notable feature: Adorable name
Ideal movie setting for: Plucky small town beating the odds

Snowy Paw Paw

Snowy Paw Paw

2. Saginaw
Population: 51,508
Most notable feature: Town square podium
Ideal movie setting for: Local political thriller

Courting the centre-ground

Courting the centre-ground

3. Frankenmuth
Population: 4944
Most notable feature: World’s largest Christmas store
Ideal movie setting for: Winter family film featuring Santa, elves and the baby Jesus

It's not really possible to capture how much Christmas there was. Plus Jesus. And the US military.

It’s not really possible to capture how much Christmas there was. Plus Jesus. And the US military.

4. Ludington
Population: 8076
Most notable feature: Beautiful sand dunes by the lake in the State Park
Ideal movie setting for: Voyage to the Desert Planet

Charging across the dunes

Charging across the dunes

5. Muskegon
Population: 38,401 (allegedly)
Most notable feature: Spooky emptiness
Ideal movie setting for: Zombie apocalypse

These are not real shops. They are fake store fronts.

These are not real shops. They are fake store fronts.

In all seriousness, it was a really lovely weekend, fuelled by a great in-car Spotify playlist, a sure touch at stumbling across wonderful B&Bs without any prior arrangement, and friendly people all round. (Also, I lost track of the number of times we met Father Christmas.) The adverts on the side of the buses in Chicago don’t lie: Michigan is a beautiful state, at least in parts, and it was well worth a visit.

Kevin and Grace's Thanksgiving

Kevin and Grace’s Thanksgiving

Thankful for wonderful people, old and new.

Reunited in Christmassy jumpers

Reunited in Christmassy jumpers

No work this week, in honour of Thanksgiving Cat and Matt visiting. Yay! This was Cat’s first trip to the land of the free and it feels like we packed in almost as much to do as the quantity of food we packed into our bellies, kicking off with a very American folky rockabilly gig (Old Grand Dad, Wild Skies) with Billy and Taylor.

Actually the world's 12th tallest building

Actually the world’s 12th tallest building

In general the weather did guide us towards indoor activities, and so we did not go and stand in the cold for the Magnificent Mile Christmas parade, but gathered with Agata, Michele and Sam to watch it on TV from the comfort of my apartment instead. This was a good call, not only because we could add some British Christmas touches (think Bucks Fizz, jumpers and Fairytale of New York) but also because we stumbled on Family Fortunes Feud afterwards, which turned into a reliable staple for the rest of the holiday.

Finally made it to Green Mill. Sssh, no talking.

Finally made it to Green Mill. Sssh, no talking.

We also saw The Guide to Being Single, a “very musical theatre” guide to dating in Chicago, as well as hitting up the the Chicago History Museum, Willis Tower (during the day this time) and – finally! – Green Mill, a jazz club famous for being a haunt of Al Capone. We weren’t sure if the “no talking” rule would apply to him, because it certainly didn’t seem to apply to the very loud whisperer behind us, but it was a very cool place to me.

Faces for freedom (and stuff) at the Chicago History Museum

Faces for freedom (and stuff) at the Chicago History Museum

Oh, and the food! Deep dish Chicago pizza at Pequod’s, at which Cat and Matt befriended two large men from Philly while I stole their food. Utter devastation at Kuma’s Corner: a heavy metal-themed burger bar where the mac and cheese alone is liable to wipe you out. And not to mention many, many breakfasts at The Windy City Café. But my favourite meal has to be the patented Cat Hurley Sunday roast, which transported me back to the days of Drayton Park. Only with more American football on in the background. Go Bears.

It’s here. It’s happening. In the frozen flows from the outdoor pipe, the biting wind, the stinging in your hands as you fumble too late for gloves: the much warned-about winter is advancing. I’m writing this blog curled under a blanket on the sofa, clasping some life-preserving Tetley tea. Give it a couple more weeks and I might even consider a scarf.

At least the lights are out

At least the lights are out

At Ellen’s Master of Peppers chilli-making competition on Saturday, Agata and I celebrated being here for five months already. Time really has gone so quickly! (“Don’t blog about this as if all Americans hold chilli-making competitions,” warned Kristina. “And don’t blog that I told you not to, either!”. I’ve officially been here long enough that people are wary of my misreporting… now isn’t that something?)

Last week I also saw two more Common Room promoted plays. The first, Strandline, was an adaptation of a Northern Irish play from a few years ago, and was somewhat… confusing. It’s a shame when you leave a theatre wishing rather meekly for a bit more exposition of the plot: gets in the way of all those emotions you’re supposed to be having. I got more out of Watch on the Rhine (featuring friend-of-the-blog John Stokvis), and not just because of the lovely set, with seats scattered in all four corners of the fancy country house living room. This play dates back to 1941, as an anti-Nazi rallying call for an America not yet at war. It’s not exactly the most subtle of messages: if it was written today, I’m not sure I could stand the strength of the halo which beams from the anti-fascist hero and his too-perfect family. But as a piece of history, it was thought provoking.