I’m stretching out, shoeless, on a sofa at the back of a fancy coffee shop. You know the place: the furniture is deliberately unmatched, there’s a chalkboard in the loo and the lamp to my right is inexplicably made out of cork. Aside from the two women to my left, who are thoughtfully conducting their conversation at a volume loud enough not to exclude anyone in the room, most people are quiet as they sit concentrating over glowing MacBooks. So as I guzzle down my unnaturally tall cup of English Breakfast tea (what will it take to stop people pouring the water in first?) this feels like an appropriate venue to confess that after years of merry isolationism, I’ve finally jumped ship and bought myself an iPhone.
You can only hold out against the tide for so long.
Aside from this development it’s been a quiet couple of weeks, with much binging on niche British documentaries (I, for one, am now a lot better informed about the inner workings of the Crown Prosecution Service) as we waited for some variant of either spring or summer (not fussy) to arrive. Two weekends ago, I saw Mai Dang Lao, directed by one Marti Lyons and set during the overnight shift at a 24/7 fast food drive through. (Did you know that over 70% of US fast food revenue comes from drive throughs? No one else seems surprised by this fact, but if that sounds like the kind of number you want to have in your head, may I recommend The Rise and Fall of American Growth which I’ve just finished ploughing through.) Anyway, the play goes down a darkened Zimbardo-esque path of “what will people do once empowered to do it?” while remaining pretty funny – it got a little self-aware for me at points, but enjoyable nonetheless.
Randi’s mum has also been in town quite a bit, so we’ve had several good dinners out together, and we’ve also managed to catch-up with gone-but-never-forgotten Lauri after work one evening with Todd. Making belated use of a Christmas gift from Robert, Randi and I also dined at La Scarola, a place which always shows me a quite ridiculous (but very welcome) favouritism. The couple ahead of us were quoted a two-hour wait, but after spotting me, we were waved through to a table within five minutes. I wish I knew what has ever qualified me for this treatment, because then maybe I could replicate it elsewhere. (For the record, though, La Scarola is always delicious.)
Finally, last night we saw The Deltones at iO with Karol, which I’ve had on my list for a long time. One of iO’s regular shows, this is a completely improvised musical, and it’s predictably hilarious. Last night’s topic was EDM. Also very good was the regular improv warm-up act, Smokin’ Hot Dad, and I clearly need to do a better job of hustling for more visitors to Chicago so I can find more excuses to go.
Back in January, I was having lunch with Ellen at work and explained my Iceland dilemma: my family had snagged a package deal for a long Easter weekend trip, and I was deciding whether to join them. Her “you’re an idiot, why is this even a question?” face was telling, so I did. Great decision.
Welcome to Reykjavik
I arrived on Saturday morning, joining Randi in our AirBnB after she had already spent a couple of days touring, riding horses and befriending our host’s cat. (Once again, my heart beats for AirBnB and the quirky, joyful extra dimension it adds to travelling.) Notwithstanding my foolish lack of sleep on the overnight flight, we set off on a two hour walking tour of Reykjavik with a great guide who came armed with a fiercely dry sense of humour.
Now Reykjavik is not a big place, and strictly speaking, you don’t really need two hours to walk around it and take in the sights. Indeed, the recent tourism boom seems to have taken Iceland a little by surprise, and so to fill the void of major sightseeing spots our guide turned to such topics as the country’s school system, tax rates and parental leave policies. Don’t get me wrong, these things were right up my street, but given the wind I would have appreciated it just as much indoors.
After meeting up with my family, we headed to one of Reykjavik’s many outdoor public pools for an authentic Icelandic bathe. (Not to mention an authentic Icelandic forced naked shower beforehand: this is not the Anglo-American way.) I loved these baths, and wish very hard that some geothermal heating might hit Chicago in the near future.
Finally, that night we headed out on a coach trip hunting the Northern Lights, which were soon located! We soon discovered that fancy cameras are much better at capturing their colours than feeble human eyes: I saw mostly white shimmers across the sky, but will allow photographs to falsify my memory after the fact.
Northern Lights
Misbehaving on the coach
Sunday was our big Golden Circle excursion day, and our guide Siggi drove us around in a monster jeep which – as he cheerfully informed us – was the product of a Frankenstein melding of two smaller vehicles. But it proved more than capable of bouncing through the snow and ice while we visited the Gullfoss waterfall, exploding geysers, a field of super-friendly horses and the border between the American and Eurasian continental plates. But the absolute highlight of the trip was the snowmobiling session! After first letting Katie prove out the theory that you don’t actually need to know how to drive a car in order to master a snowmobile, Randi promoted me from passenger to driver on ours, and I’m pleased to report that no injuries were sustained.
Casual family gathering
Can’t drive a car; can totally drive a snowmobile
Remember the SkiFree monster? Here it is.
We decided to wait downstream of the exploding geyser
Katie summons the horses
After a French farewell dinner with the family on Sunday night, Randi and I tried out another public pool on Monday morning and took a final walk by the ocean before heading home. There’s a definite atmosphere of quiet, Nordic utilitarianism to the city, and walking around made me think sympathetically on Hillary Clinton’s famous “we’re not Denmark” line. Not that we don’t have much to learn from Denmark, or Iceland, but you can’t just transplant a culture from an island of 320,000 people and hope that it sticks.
Still, this was definitely an Easter weekend to remember, and served up some unforgettable landscapes. Come join the Icelandic tourist boom now before they get fed up of us all invading their country!
The Sun Voyager
As a follow-up to my St. Louis weekend, I finally watched The Pruitt-Igoe Myth, a documentary which Katie Schuering recommended to me a very long time ago and stuck around on the same “to do, eventually…” list which still includes (and I promise this is true) the vague one-word entry “Kierkegaard”.
Anyway. You should too. Pruitt-Igoe was a famous public housing project in St. Louis which followed a trajectory familiar outside America too: built in the 1950s as a shiny modernist answer to urban slums, it soon spiralled into neglect and decline, before being demolished in the 1970s and forever after held up as the kind of ‘big government’ failure on which the Reagan myth depended. But quite obviously – and this is the story which the documentary tells – this happened in the context of a mass exodus from the city to suburbia. And aside from everything else, mass suburbia was built on an astonishingly upfront and explicit racism. It was the ultimate segregation project, and it plundered everything from the urban civic core.
On a more positive note for the future of urban renewal: Chicago is buying new trains 🙂
Sceptical
And when the children of suburbanites rejoin the city, one of their many fun leisure options will be concerts like the Chvrches show I saw with Randi on Monday night. I’m a fickle music listener who mostly hops from one catchy song to the next without much allegiance to the artist, so it’s really rare that I see someone where I’ve actually listened to whole albums and have an above-average chance of recognising each song. Unsurprisingly, it’s much better this way too. Later in the week, I savoured Marco Rubio’s pleasingly humiliating primary exit on Super Tuesday II with Catherine, lost many rounds of Fibbage 2 at Toggolyn’s, and finally lured Josh onto Skype. (He treats the technology a bit like contemporaries tried to take in the moon landing.)
All credit to Anna
Apropos nothing, other than rummaging through some old files from long-dead computers, I present this memento from 2003 celebrating my achievement at catapulting my Geocities website (“Web Site”) to the top of Google’s search results for my own name:
Take that, Dominic Pettman and your self-replicators
Nothing nearly so momentous has occurred in the past few weeks. Following the primary voting schedule is a bit like peeling back the doors of a particularly slipshod advent calendar: some days nothing comes out at all (unless you count Marco Rubio’s “landslide victory in Puerto Rico” – kudos to Rubio for ensuring his official podcasting team don’t exceed the bounds of plausible upbeat narratives and end up just looking embarrassing now) and then on other days a whole Super Tuesday’s worth of states come tumbling out. To mix metaphors, it’s The Archers Omnibus Edition of primaries, and I watched the continuing rise of our new jackbooted overlord Trump in the fine company of Randi, AJ and some Mexican food. Think of it as a political statement.
No one was a great fan of Trump at Kevin’s (temporary) leaving party, either. Which is damned odd, because there were a bunch of people there. So since none of my twenty and thirtysomething urbanite friends have a good word to say about Donald Drumpf, I’ll conclude that it’s all a mirage and move on to my sedate theatre review section:
- Trip the Light Fantastic: The Making of SuperStrip – after winning free tickets to a show at the Harris Theater [sic] for Music and Dance, I scoured their programme to find the least dancey thing in the schedule… or at least, the least exclusively dancey thing. Trip the Light Fantastic, a light-hearted skewering of buzzword-soaked organisations through the ineffectual committee meetings of a group of (somewhat rubbish) aspiring superheroes, fit the bill nicely. One of the biggest laughs of the night came from a joke about the uselessness of a Masters in the arts: you know this sort of crowd.
- Interrogation – the first half of this play is an intense murder-mystery, building up the tension through a skilled cast of misfits and potential sociopaths. Unfortunately, I don’t know how any of this resolves in the second half, because it proved slightly too intense and I wasn’t confident of making it through without losing all vision (this happens to me…) and adding some unnecessary extra drama of my own. But it’s really annoying, because this is the first time that I’ve actually really liked what I was walking out of, and I want to know what happens next…
- Othello at the Chicago Shakespeare Theater [sic, again] – I fucking love Othello. Partly because I studied it enough that I don’t have to work to understand everything that’s being said, partly because Randi mistakenly prefers Hamlet and I don’t want to give ground, but mostly because Iago is the greatest villain ever created. My one complaint with the play is that he gets his comeuppance at the end, because I like to imagine that he spends his life drifting from place to place, worming his way into the lives of noble people and then blowing them apart just to sit back and watch the fire burn. Plus, whenever Roderigo appears, I hear Mr. Buchanan booming “THICK! THICK! THICK!” in my head. I realise that I’m reviewing Shakespeare here, which is not really necessary at this point, but it was a good adaptation (even Randi agreed with this) which did nothing to dampen my enthusiasm for this eternally relevant play.
We need to talk about St. Louis. It’s one of the oddest cities I’ve ever visited. It’s quite possible to completely fill a weekend, as I just did with Jason and Randi, with some really good food and decent tourist spots – including one place, the City Museum, which is truly phenomenal and must surely be world-leading. At the same time, it’s impossible to ignore how empty St. Louis feels. A city which, at its height, was home to over 850,000 people is now below 320,000. The urban landscape sprawls over big blocks and wide roads because that’s just how car-mad American cities were built, but barely any traffic passes through. There isn’t really any skyline to speak of, apart from the arch. Everyone we met was friendly, though, and it wasn’t uncomfortable to walk around… just odd. You really notice what the clouds do.
Suburbanisation is not like shifting tectonic plates or the weathering of sea cliffs – not some natural process which inexorably changes the land. It’s a human decision. If you want great cities, you need to live in them.
Anyhow, after a long evening journey through Illinois – which included hash browns at Waffle House! – we checked into The Cheshire. (Everyone pronounces this chesh-ire, to rhyme with fire, but obviously my readers know better.) I’d booked this the weekend before by scrolling through the few remaining places in St. Louis on my phone and picking the one which looked ‘nice’ without much further thought. It quickly transpired that the signals my brain processes as ‘nice’ are that of a full-on British-themed hotel, complete with Queen’s Guard figurines outside and rooms named after British authors and poets. (Disappointingly, we stayed in James Hilton.) In my defence, it was also very close to Forest Park, so a good base for a wander through this giant and lovely mix of woods and lawns.
Waffle House: another American icon checked off my list
In Forest Park, which is “larger than Central Park” (as you will be frequently told)
One unexpectedly awesome thing in St. Louis is the World Chess Hall of Fame, which had a special exhibition about women in chess (Ladies’ Knight – yes, very clever) and included lots of cool chess-themed artwork. And I don’t even play chess. I don’t really drink Budweiser, either, but St. Louis is the headquarters of brewer Anheuser-Busch and they do offer free tours with free samples, so we also did that.
One of my favourite artworks from the World Chess Hall of Fame
On the Budweiser tour. Extensive Budweiser packaging left intact.
Stroking a Clydesdale
But the absolute best thing about St. Louis is the misleadingly-named City Museum. It’s not a museum, not really, but in fact a giant playground – indoor and outdoor – for adults and children alike. And it’s amazing. Made mostly from reused architectural and industrial products, an entrance fee of $12 buys unlimited exploration around a dense network of tunnels, caves, slides, trains, wire frames, ball pits, fish tanks, castles and even two small planes suspended in the sky. And along the way you might stumble across a café, sweetshop or a bar too. If anyone reading this remembers Kidstop, then it’s sorta like that, only if Kidstop were designed by benevolent crazy artists and played jazz music in the background.
The most wonderful thing about City Museum is the way adults and children interact. It’s a shared, peaceful coexistence: the adults aren’t just there as parents, it’s also crazy fun for them too. But for once, it’s a world built on children’s terms – they have genuinely more competence and skill, being able to run up, climb over and crawl under any obstacle quicker and more nimbly than a big person can. It’s hard to crawl on your knees or squeeze through holes in the floor if you’re old and lame and 26. One little boy even offered up directions when we looked helpless and lost. If I ever have children, I’m taking them to St. Louis so they can feel a smug joy at being children.
Up inside the City Museum’s outdoor section
Impossible to capture in photos, but here’s one attempt
I fly planes now
I feel compelled to offer at least one photo of the arch, so here’s a photo of the arch
Helen on It’s (waiting) time.: “Fabulous news, congratulations to you both! X” Jun 8, 21:51
